At about this time last week, I was cozying it up with three other people on a bunch of rice sacks on the hardwood floor of a Spanish-Ifugao house built in the 1950s. We went there on a rice-planting (Pfukhay ad Majawjaw) and cultural trip—something close to experiencing an Ifugao culture that is similar to but not quite the same as those from Banaue. Stick and co. filmed it for their thesis. It was a really good experience.

We left Thursday night and arrived Friday morning. After a short rest at the Milcah Lodge, we gathered up some of our stuff and trekked down the mountain for “homestay,” which basically meant that we invaded someone’s house for a night.

The trek down was kind of scary because we had to walk on the “rims” of the rice paddies and balance ourselves with everything else we had been carrying. Which is tons hard when, all around you, there’s just so much beauty you rarely get to see in the city.

Addresses and directions are sort of funny, too.

“Where are we going?”

“That part down there with the three coconut trees.”

This marks our descent, leaving the “city central” of Mayoyao.

We found goats along the way. One nearly rammed into Karina (a different one!) because of goat noises.

Unlike the Banaue rice terraces, the Mayoyao terraces don’t have a communal living area apart from their paddies. Their workplace is usually right in front of their houses.

The house we stayed in! It’s two levels with a bridge-type thing that you cross. On the ground are chicken coops and a place to hang laundry.

We eat in a circle on this cobblestone-y ground. It’s nice at night because all the stars are out. On this trip, I looked for ‘Carina’ and (partly) found it.

For nga-nga, or betel nuts, lime and some powdered shell things. Chewing on these helps warm people up when it’s cold. It turns people’s mouths red, too.

What has affectionately been dubbed as a Nga-nga Session.

Doggy paw prints on the path!

We went on a small trek to an ancient burial site called Apfo’or. There are two other known burial sites but they were located on different mountain peaks.

Sometimes, you can forget how horrifying it is to be stepping on a foot-thin path with a high drop on one side and a rice paddy on the other side, just because of how beautiful it sometimes is.

Special thanks to Isa who lent me her hiking shoes. Minimized clumsiness, at least.

Gracie voluntarily stepped into a rice paddy with no one asking her to.

Kuya Andro, Drew the sound guy, Gracie, Stick, Sarie.

It was like filming a documentary on rice paddies while being terrified for your life.

Chick-a-dees!

Rice paddies! These bunches are transplanted into bigger “lots” so that they can yield more crops. Their rice is amazing, but they only make as much as they need so if you want some, I think you have to place an order. It’s enthralling, the thought of being self-sustaining, but I (guiltily) cannot fathom living without the other things I like eating that I cannot grow myself.

Like walking beside murky clouds.

Truthfully, the gorgeousness of everything really trumped the terrifying nature of the trek. At one point, Karina and I had to pretend that getting back home was like an immunity challenge on Survivor.

After this declaration, of course, I nearly slipped and fell to my tragic demise.

We headed back while there was still light.

This rooster ruled all.

Imagine having this view as a backyard. Look at those mountains. It really felt like I was trotting along Middle Earth, except I didn’t meet singing elves or stinging spiders along the way.

The next morning was planting day! I don’t have pictures of this because I was too busy planting (truth), so I’ll wait for Gracie’s batch.

After planting, they have a ritual to do with chickens. They slaughtered one in front of us, and it had to be done inside the house (for some reason). Their house is also very cool, if I may say so. Everything is in one room.

To the right of this kitchen, for example, is their sleeping area.

Karina teaching tatay to shoot with Gracie’s Canon 5D Mark II, which I have fallen in love with, much to the dismay of the Nikon fan in me. Still thinking about whether or not I should invest in this camera.

Sleepy doggy.

Part III (and IV?) to come in the next few days. Relishing this trip, I guess. I’ve cocooned myself at home and have refused to go out (kind of) but I don’t know if that’s an after-effect of this trip or a manifestation of my true form—that of a lazy worm.